Are you tired of throwing your food scraps in the trash? This beginners guide to apartment composting covers everything you need to know to successfully start putting your food and yard waste to good use.

This post is the result of my many years of frustration with feeling like I couldn’t live up to my “zero waste” aspirations while living in an apartment in the city.

I was frustrated that I kept having to throw away food scraps and those forgotten bags of greens in the back of the fridge, when I knew these kitchen remnants could serve as energy for my small garden outside.

Why couldn’t I compost? First, I lived in a building with six units, and I was certain the landlord and other tenants would be skeptical of a rotting pile of scraps in their already limited backyard space.

Second, I wasn’t aware of the wide array of composting options that could have offered solutions to the non-starter of traditional outdoor composting like sealed compost bins and worm composting (AKA vermicomposting.) We’ll cover these varied apartment composting methods in this post, along with traditional outdoor composting if you can swing it.

I still live in an apartment, but I’m lucky enough to have a landlord now that allows us to have a compost pile out back.

What is Compost?

Sometimes referred to as “black gold” in the gardening world, compost is the result of the decomposition of organic (AKA containing carbon and a product of organisms) matter.

Finished compost is moist, crumbly and deep brown–almost black. However, it may takes months to years to become this finished product.

The rotting of almost any organic matter will eventually turn into compost. As they say, “compost happens.”

Compost Ingredients

However, a well-maintained compost pile follows a few simple rules. Compost should be fed a good mix of high carbon-containing materials (called “browns” because they are often dry, brown materials) and high nitrogen-containing materials (called “greens” because they are often fresh, tender materials like food scraps and lawn clippings).

High Carbon “Browns”

Straw
Seedless hay
Paper
Cardboard
Sawdust
Sticks and twigs
Wood chips
Dry leaves

High Nitrogen “Greens”

Food scraps
Lawn clippings
Garden weeds
Fresh leaves
Coffee grounds

The ideal ratio of high-carbon to high-nitrogen materials in a compost pile is about 50:50. However, I don’t recommend getting to caught up with maintaining this ideal ratio. Instead, focus on maintaining a good mix by adding alternating layers of “browns” and “greens” to your compost.

A good rule of thumb is to put down a brown layer each time you add a green layer. Too much green material, and you’ll end up with a stinky, mucky mess that is especially inviting for maggots.

What Not To Compost

Meat
Fish
Bones
Dairy products
Oils
Dog or cat poop

Keep Compost Moist

Compost also needs to be kept moist. The ideal moisture level is that of a wrung-out sponge–damp but not soaking. During the hot summer months this means you may need to manually water your compost with a hose.

Benefits of Compost

Compost holds the nutrients your plants need to thrive. Importantly, compost contains an active community of microbes that are ready to continue the decomposition party, and provide your plants’ roots with nutrients in the meantime.

Compost can also hold a lot of water, tiding over thirsty plants in moments of drought. However, it’s airy enough to bring vital oxygen to subterranean life.

I recommend dressing your gardens with at least a couple of inches of compost every year at the start of the spring before you plant. This layer will supercharge your plants throughout the growing season.

This post is all about apartment composting.

Apartment Composting

Apartment composting certainly comes with challenges, but you might be pleasantly surprised with what you are able to accomplish with just a container on your back porch, for example. You don’t need a backyard, and you certainly don’t need to be an expert. Remember, the nature of organic matter is to decompose, and “compost happens.”

Apartment Composting Logistics

Before you begin your apartment composting journey, I recommend you consider some logistics that may help you decide which type of composting will be best for you.

If you have access to a patch of dirt or lawn (and even if you don’t!) you may be able to work an outdoor compost pile. I would recommend checking in with your landlord, and–if the land is a common area–your fellow tenants.

Importantly, a compost pile may attracts pests and wildlife. If you’re worried about vermin, it might be best to choose a self-contained compost bin rather than an open pile. Never throw dairy, meat, or bones, as these are unlikely to break down properly and will certain attract visitors.

Types of Composting

Outdoor Composing

Outdoor, open air composting is traditionally what may of us think of when we think composting. It’s best to start composting on dirt or lawn. Composting on earth allows for friendly worms to aid the decomposition process and add their beneficial worm castings (AKA worm poop.) However, believe it or not, you can compost right on pavement or cement–anywhere really.

Ideally, a compost pile should be at least about three feet (3′) high and three feet (3′) wide. A compost pile this size or larger will be able to achieve the internal temperatures required to sterilize weed seeds and kill pests.

To achieve this shape, I recommend using a compost bin of some kind–even outside. These can be makeshift–I have seen very successful outdoor compost bins made of four pallets nailed together. You could also create a circular bin by shaping chicken wire or hardware cloth into a tube and securing with wire.

You can certainly also buy an outdoor compost bin. I like this cedar wood compost bin.

To ensure they always have finished compost, many gardeners keep multiple compost bins–one they are actively adding to, and the others with finished compost. I like this cedar multi-bin composter.

Compost Bin or Container

If you’re worried about pests, or don’t have a patch of land on which to compost, a sealed compost bin may be the best option for you. These containers can be set up anywhere–even on your porch.

A simple DIY compost bin can be made with a lidded garbage can (plastic or galvanized steel) with a few holes punched into the sides.

More fancy contraptions can be purchased that come with the added benefit of a door form which to harvest your finished compost.

Worm Composting (Vermicomposting)

If you want to keep the composting process indoors, speed up the process, or have thousands of new friends–worm composting may be for you! Worms make dutiful workers, and can turn kitchen scraps into compost in as little as three months.

Only a certain type of worm is up to the task–that is redworms (Eisenia foetida). These case be found online, in bait shops, and occasionally farmers markets.

You can keep worms in a plastic bin small enough to fit under your kitchen sink. They thrive at room temperature, but can be kept on a back porch, in a mudroom, garage, etc.

Inside their plastic bin home, worms only need a few things to survive: bedding and food. Use shredded newspaper as bedding. You will feed them a few times a week with kitchen scraps. Anything vegan will do: fruits, vegetables, coffee grounds, etc. except the occasional eggshell for calcium.

I recommend going with a two-bin worm composter system that allows you feed the worms in the top bin, and collect the finished compost in the lower bin.

This post was all about apartment composting.

Hi, I’m Leslie, the founder of PunkMed

Hey friend! I’m so glad that you stopped by today. I had a great time sharing my top tips for apartment composting! If you’re into gardening, urban homesteading, or living a more sustainable life, stick around! There are a good number of resources on my blog, and I always love to hear from my readers (that’s you!) Feel free to send me a DM on Instagram!

---

Other posts you may like:

• The Best Compost Caddy for Kitchen Countertop 2024 – Cute & Functional
• How to Start a No Till Garden | Beginner’s Guide
• How to Prepare Your Garden for Winter to Ensure Healthy Soil Next Year

Starting seeds indoors can extend your growing season, ensure greater success with germination, and make healthier plants–especially if you live in a colder climate. Learn how to start seed indoors with this ultimate guide.

Some plants are best sown indoors, where they will germinate and grow in the safe and warm environment of your home until they can be transplanted outside.

Starting seeds indoors is a rewarding process that requires a little investment in some equipment up front, but will serve your garden in the long run!

Let’s get into it!

Plants to Start Indoors

Generally speaking, there are two types of plants that are best sown indoors:

• Heat-loving plants (like tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers)
• Long-season plants (like brussel sprouts, celery, and cabbage)

Note: these categories are NOT mutually exclusive. For example, the tomato is both a heat-loving and long-season vegetable. Long-season plants take a long time to grow before they can be harvested.

If I tried to sow tomato seed outdoors in New England (where I live), I would would likely be hampered by cold temperatures in the spring. If I waited longer for temperatures to warm, the tomatoes would not have enough time in the growing season to produce fruit (or not as much as I would like!) before the fall set in.’

Of course, there is some nuance around which plants should be started indoors. Decisions to start indoors should be based on the plant, your climate, and your experience. Some experimentation will reveal which plants are best sown indoors and outdoors in your specific garden!

When to Start Seeds Indoors

Determining when to start seeds indoors depends on the plant you are intending to grow. The best place to find this information is on the seed packet.

Generally, the packet will say something like “Sow indoors X weeks before last frost.” This gives you the number of weeks before last frost to start these specific seeds indoors. To determine the last frost date for your specific area, ask a gardening neighbor or look up the date of last frost by your zip code here.

Where to Start Seeds Indoors

Deciding where to put your seed starting operation when starting seeds indoors can be a challenge–especially if you’re an urban homesteader like me and gardening in a small space or apartment!

Your exact setup will depend on how large your operation is (I recommend starting small) but you will at least need at least one flat surface with room to hang grow lights above the plants. See below for the exact seed starting equipment I recommend.

However, I do have some tips regarding where in your home to start seeds:

1. Choose a place in your home where the temperature is consistently 60°F or above. For the most part, this means NOT starting seeds in a garage or unfinished basement. The exception would be if you know your garage or basement stays above 60°F and you can prove it with a temperature monitor.
2. Find a place away from children and pets. Seed starting setups are like magnets to curious children and pets–I don’t know why this is but it is the truth! Plus, it’s dangerous. You don’t want anyone knocking trays of water into your artificial light setup. For this reason, I have my seed starting setup in the office which can be closed off from the rest of the house and the cats.
3. You don’t actually need a ton of light. It’s not necessary to have your setup by a window or light source, because a window will never provide sufficient light for your seedlings. Instead, we will be relying on artificial light to optimal plant growth.
4. You DO need to start near an outlet. You need to be able to plug in your artificial grow lights nearby.

Seed Starting Equipment

Starting seeds indoors requires some investment in some specialized products and equipment. However, I promise the investment in pay off in healthier plants that produce more throughout the extended growing season!

Seed Starting Medium

Give your seeds the best chance at growing healthy and strong by using special seed starting medium. This is NOT soil! Seed starting medium is specially formulated to germinate and grow seeds.

DO NOT start seeds in your regular soil! There could potentially be pests and pathogens lurking in untreated soil that could squash germination or harm your seedlings.

Seed Tray with Humidity Dome and Flood Tray

Listen, I’m all for avoiding plastic where possible, but believe me I have tried every compostable seed pot and they just DO NOT get the job done!

Instead, I recommend a standard, plastic seed tray with a humidity dome and flood tray without holes. Luckily, these can be reused if properly sanitized between seasons and handled gently.

There are two important components of a seed starting tray besides the seed starting cells where you actually plant your seeds:

• HUMIDITY DOME – helps protect the seeds and helps move along the germination process. Cover the seed tray with the humidity dome until the seeds have germinated and then remove.
• FLOOD TRAY – holds the seed starting cells. A flood tray is essential for a practice I recommend called ‘bottom watering.’ Bottom watering basically means instead of watering your seedlings directly, you’ll fill the flood tray with about a 1/4 inch of water, and that water will be wicked up into the soil. This practice encourages root development.

Heat Mat

Most seeds like it warm in order to germinate! The optimal germination temperature for heat-loving plants like tomatoes is 65° to 85°F. I don’t know about you, but that is just a little bit warmer than my apartment in the early spring! (Especially with my husband constantly turning down the thermostat!)

This heat mat warms the rooting area 10-20°F above ambient temperature.

(Plus, this heat mat actually doubles as a sourdough starter jumpstart and bread-proofer in my house!)

Grow Lights

Unfortunately, windows will not provide enough light to grow seedlings inside. Instead, you’ll need to invest in artificial lights, sometimes called “grow lights”.

You’ll need a 2-foot grow light for every tray of seeds.

Best Type of Grow Lights for Starting Seeds Indoors

I recommend T5 fluorescent or full-spectrum LED 6500K lights. The K stands for Kelvin, which is a measure of the ‘color temperature’ of the light. Generally, lights higher on the Kelvin scale (i.e. white-blue) emulate daylight and are best for vegetative growth. Ignore those pink lights–they’re pretty but NOT the best for seed starting!

The grow lights should ideally come with hooks to hang from above, as well as a pulley system to move the lights up and down. You’ll pull the lights up as the seedlings grow, so you don’t scorch their tender leaves.

I like the SunBlaster LED Strip Light Kit – 36″.

Shelving

I like basic, heavy-duty steel storage shelving for seed starting purposes.

The steel wire material will allow you to hang your grow lights safely from the shelf above your seed trays. (Again, ideally your grow lights came with hooks and a pulley system for this purpose.)

The exact size of your shelving will depend on the amount of trays you plan on growing. I recommend starting out small! This 4-shelf unit will allow you to have three shelves of seed trays with grow lights hanging from the shelf above.

Reminder: be safe when using electricity and water in the same area!

How to Start Seeds Indoors

By now, you’ve picked the seeds, and you know where and when you’re starting your seeds. You’ve got your equipment and you’re ready to grow, so here are the actual step to starting seeds indoors.

#1 Set Up Shelving Unit/Seed Starting Station

Setting up your seed starting station is going to look different based on your space and the number of trays you’ll be planting. Make sure your space is near an outlet, as you will need to plug in the electronics.

I recommend using heavy-duty steel shelving units in whatever size works best for you. I use the Amazon Basics 4-Shelf Adjustable, Heavy Duty Storage Shelving Unit (36L x 14W x 54H). This allows me to grow on three of the shelves, with grow lights hanging from the shelf above.

#2 Hang Grow Lights

After you’ve got your shelving set up, you’ll want to hang your grow lights.

Ideally you’ve purchased grow lights that come with hanging hooks and clips. I like the SunBlaster LED Strip Light Kit – 36″ for this reason, and because they are the same length as my shelving unit! This model comes with hanging clips, but you’ll need to buy the adjustable hanger separately. (This allows you to adjust how the the lights hang over the plants as they grow.)

You will need at least one 2-foot light for each standard 10″x20″ tray of seedlings you want to start. I like to double up with two LED lights over each seed tray.

Using the hanging clips and hooks, hang the light strips from the steel wire of the shelf above where you will keep your seed tray(s).

You won’t need to turn the lights on until the seeds have germinated, but it’s good to have your space set up in advance.

#3 Plant Seeds

Okay, now for the fun part–time to actually plant the seeds! I like to do this outside on my front porch so as to not make a huge mess indoors.

Make sure your seed tray and supplies are sanitized if reusing them from last growing season.

Fill each cell with seed starting medium, leaving about a 1/4″ inch at the top.

Poke a 1/4″ hole in the top of the soil with a pen tip or finger, drop your seed in, and sprinkle with grow medium to cover.

Spray gently with water. I like to use a super gently spray bottle for this step.

#4 Add Heat Mat and Humidity Dome

Alright, now time to set up the optimal conditions for your seed to germinate.

Plug in the heat mat and set it to the optimal germination temperature for most heat-loving seeds–65° to 85°F. Keep an eye on the ambient temperature in your house–the heat mat may not need to be on 24/7.

Make sure each of your seeds has been sprayed with water. You’ll want to keep them hydrated throughout the germination process, so keep spraying them with water when the growing medium starts looking a little dry. (We won’t be bottom water with the flood tray quite yet.)

Cover the seed tray with the humidity dome. If it ever looks like it’s getting a little TOO wet in there (and maybe getting moldy) offset the dome a bit to let in some air.

#5 Wait for Germination!

Now we wait! Keep the seed starting medium moist by spraying gently with water whenever you notice it getting a little dry.

Remember: you don’t turn the grow lights on during the germination phase! Those seeds are underground and don’t require light to germinate–just moisture and warmth.

Check the seed packet for specific germination times. For example, tomato seeds should germinate in about 5-6 days if you can keep the soil temperature around 80°F.

#6 Turn on Grow Lights

Once your seeds have germinated, it’s time to turn on the grow lights!

In general, seedlings should get 14-16 hours of light a day under LED grow light, and 16-18 hours of light a day under fluorescent lights.

Bonus tip: use a digital outlet timer (like a one you use for Christmas tree lights) to automatically turn your grow lights off and on.

Keep your seedlings 2-4″ away from the grow lights, using the adjustable hooks to raise the lights as the seedlings grow.

#7 Water Your Seedlings from the Bottom

Now that your seeds have sprouted, it is time to swap out the spray bottle for “bottom watering.” Bottom watering is easier than spraying your seedlings with water, and encourages your seedlings to grow deeper roots.

Bottom Watering Your Seedlings

Water your seedlings by keeping the flood tray beneath the seed starting cells filled with about 1/4″ of water. I use the regular old watering can I use for house plants for this purpose. The water will be “wicked up” by the growing medium through the holes in the seed tray.

You can turn the heat mat off and remove at this point.

#8 Feeding

This is optional, but your seedings may benefit from a 50% diluted organic liquid fertilizer about a week or so before hardening off. Simply add the diluted fertilizer to the flood tray as you would during a watering.

#9 Hardening Off

Hardening off is the process of transitioning your seedlings to the outside world before they are transplanted. You can begin the hardening off process when the seedlings have put out 3-5 sets of true leaves (i.e. the identifiable leaves of the adult plant, not the first set of baby cotyledon leaves.)

Start the hardening off process on a warm, clear day when the temperatures are above 45°F. Place your seedlings outside in a place where they are protected from wind and direct sunlight. (A greenhouse with the door open or other semi-sheltered space would be perfect for this!) Leave them out for an hour.

Increase time outside by an hour over the course of the next week or so, never leaving your seedlings outside in the harsh wind or rain!

After max two weeks, your seedlings are ready to be transplanted into your garden and live the rest of their days outside! Great job!

This post was all about starting seeds indoors.

Hi, I’m Leslie, the founder of PunkMed

Hey friend! I’m so glad that you stopped by today. I had a great time sharing my top tips to starting seeds indoors! If you’re into vegetable gardening, urban homesteading, or living a more sustainable life, stick around! There are a good number of resources on my blog, and I always love to hear from my readers (that’s you!) Feel free to send me a DM on Instagram!

What to Read Next:

• 15 BEST Tomato Garden Ideas – DIY Hacks & Tips for Beginners
• 21 Excellent Vegetable Garden Ideas
• How to Save Tomato Seeds for Next Year

Wondering how to prepare your garden for winter so that the soil is healthy as possible for the next growing season? Follow this complete guide to preparing your garden for winter.

In my first year of gardening, I didn’t give too much thought to how to prepare my garden for winter. To be honest, there is so much excitement and work to do during the growing season that it honestly didn’t occur to me until the first frost set in.

It felt wrong to just leave the soil bare out in the freezing cold, but I didn’t know any better at the time.

Now, with nearly a decade of gardening and urban homesteading under my belt, I am sharing the simple steps I learned along the way to properly prepare your garden for winter to ensure the healthiest soil for next year.

Why Prepare Your Garden for Winter?

Here in New England, (I grow in Zone 6b) there is not much to grow in the winter. Of course, there are ways to extend your growing season, but for the most part, winter is a time of rest and reset for the garden.

As a urban homesteader, I personally use the winter to focus on other practices, such as sourdough bread baking and cold water therapy.

Still, there are a few steps you can take at the end of the growing season (in the fall) to ensure the soil is in your garden is as healthy as possible for the next year.

These simple steps will protect beneficial insect and microbial life and add nutrient-dense matter to build your soil through the harsh winter.’

When to Prepare Garden for Winter

Generally, you should begin preparing your garden for winter after you’ve harvested all your crops before the first frost of the year.

It’s important to harvest everything in your garden before the first frost because the freezing temperatures can kill the plant and damage the integrity of the edible parts.

I recommend finding the estimated first fall frost date for your area in the Farmers Almanac. Use the estimated date to plan ahead, but pay attention the weather forecast in case you need to harvest early.

As discussed below, I also recommend taking in any electronics that you may use in the garden before the first frost, as these can be damaged in the cold.

Hi, I’m Leslie, Urban Gardener!

My name is Leslie, and I’m the founder of PunkMed! On my blog, I and my team share my info, experiences, and recommendations in the area of gardening, urban homesteading, and natural living. Our goal is to make it less overwhelming for you to live a fun and sustainable life!

In today’s post, I’m sharing my steps to preparing your garden for winter. These ideas come from my years of experience no till gardening in New England–which is known to have some pretty harsh winters!

Let’s get into it!

This post is all about how to prepare garden for winter.

How to Prepare Garden for Winter

#1 Clear Out Annuals

First, as a practitioner of no-dig gardening, I like to disturb the soil as little as possible when preparing my garden for winter. This practice leaves beneficial microbial and insect life intact. Plus, the decomposing plant matter of last years’ plants will provide nutrients to your garden next year. It’s the circle of life!

But, how do we remove the annual plants in the winter to make room for new plants next year without disturbing the soil?

Use a good pair of gardening shears to clip smaller plants at the base, where the stem meets the soil.

You may need to remove larger plants entirely. Use a hori hori knife (AKA a gardening knife) to cut around the base of the stem, and use a ‘twist-and-pull’ motion to remove the plant.

#2 Clean Up Perennials

Next, perennial plants should not be removed from your garden (that is, if you want them to grow again next year!) However, you should clean them up a bit to ensure good growth next year.

Use gardening shears to prune away any spent flowers or dead/diseased foliage.

#3 Take in Irrigation Equipment

Next, if you have a drip irrigation system in place like me, it’s critical to bring in any electronics and delicate equipment that could be damaged by freezing temperatures. I bring in the entire head assembly at the hose tap for the winter (including the water timer,  check valve, water filter, and pressure regulator.)

Generally, it’s okay to leave the ground irrigation system out for the winter (including the drip line, drip tape, drip emitters, etc.) Basically, the tubing that actually brings the water to the plants can be left outside for the winter.

#4 Put Down Layer of Compost

After harvesting, removing dead plant matter, and taking in irrigation equipment, you’re ready to prepare your soil for next year.

Next, spread a layer about one inch (1″) thick of compost across your garden.

Compost is the brown, crumbly byproduct of decayed organic matter. You can buy compost, or make your own.

I always use my favorite Coast of Maine Compost.

Compost is the most nutrient-dense additive you can provide your soil. Think of it as a nice healthy meal your soil can enjoy all winter along, so it’s strong and ready to go for next year!

#5 Cover with Leaves

Finally, the last step is like tucking in your garden for a long rest, and will ensure it’s reenergized for the next growing season.

Lay down about three inches (3″) of leaf litter over your compost layer, completely covering your garden area.

These leaves can be collected from elsewhere in your yard. (Don’t throw those leaves away!) I like to run the collected leaves over with a lawn mower a few times to shred them a bit, making it easier for the leaves to break down in the garden.

Plus, this layer of leaves insulates your garden and the life it sustains over the winter, and provides important habitat for beneficial insects.

This post was all about how to prepare garden for winter.

What to Read Next:

• How to Start a No Till Garden | Beginner’s Guide
• Guide to Starting Tomato Seeds Indoors
• How to Sanitize Seed Trays and Seed Starting Equipment
• 15 BEST Tomato Garden Ideas – DIY Hacks & Tips for Beginners
• 21 Excellent Vegetable Garden Ideas